Sizing 2x8s into lumber for the drawer frames.   I use the Cut List and cut each piece to the length needed to make the fronts, sides and backs of the drawers.   After cutting up these 2x8s I'll resaw them to the correct thickness.   Resawing means I get multiple thinner pieces from each 2x8 cut.

When I cut multple pieces the same length, I use a stop block on the miter saw extension to make sure the cuts are the same lenth.  

Here are the drawer sides and backs, ready for resawing.  

These are marked for 3/8" plus 1/16" for drawer sides or backs.   I've already machined the outside surface flat with the thickness planer.   I'll get 3 3/8" thick sides from each 2x8.

Here is the setup on to resaw.   The 2x8s are on the table saw to the right.  

Starting to resaw.   This is one of the 26" long side slabs.

The bandsaw blade cutting off the first side slab.   Notice the bandsaw blade's edge is on the mark, leaving the measured slab on the left.   These slabs are 1/16" thicker than 3/8" (the target width for a side/back) and I'll use the thickness planer to remove the bandsaw marks and get them to the exact thickness.   This is the first cut of two which will yield 3 slabs.  

Showing a little more of the bandsaw setup.   The orange thing to the right of the slab is a feather board which holds the piece against the blue vertical resaw guide to the left of the piece.
I made a resaw guide of my own, which worked great, but it was based on the Jet fence which used a gravity handle to lock it into position.   I frequently bumped the gravity handle causing it to move and spoil my setup, so I reverted to this Kreg fence and guide.  

Here is a second cut, again the edge of the bandsaw blade is on the mark.   The piece on the right is close enough to the correct thickness I can use the thickness planer to get it on the money, I don't need to resaw a third time.

Sides and backs after resawing and planing.  

These will be drawer fronts.  

2x8 marked down the center for the drawer fronts, they'll be 11/167quot; thick after I resaw and plane them.  

Resawing the fronts.  

Now the blade centers on the mark.  

Aftr resawing, the fronts must have a rabbet on each end as well as the rabbet along the bottom (for the drawer bottom).   The overhang part of this end rabbet conceals the slides when the drawer is closed.

Cutting the bottom rabbet on a side.  

Showing the bit cutting the bottom rabbet.   BTW that bit is rotating about 24,000 RPM, the strobe flash almost stopped it.

All parts for 12 drawers, bottom, sides, and backs, rabbeted and ready to dovetail.  

Closer look at bottom rabbets.  

And the stack of drawer fronts, rabbeted.  

My dovetail jig is stored under the sander.   Here it is as it is stored.   Note the small round wooden handle at the bottom of the inset panel, that keeps the dovetail slider from coming out when the bench is moved.

With the dovetail jig's slider pulled out.   For more pics on the dovetail storage slider please see.
I have since built a better dovetail storage with a spring lift to raise the jig.    

The workbench ready for the dovetail jig.  

With the dovetail jig mounted.   There are two tee knobs and bolts that fit in the end tee track to hold the dovetail jig in place when in use.

I have begun to use this bungee cord to hold the dust shroud in place, vibration tend to let it work away from the jig.  

Drawer sides, backs, and fronts, in sets, ready to dovetail.  

Looking down at the end of a drawer front lined up ready to cut the dovetails.  

Now the tails have been routed.  

Closer look at the tails after routing in the jig.  

Stack of dovetailed frawer fronts.  

Here is a drawer back (on top) and a drawer side (front bottom) ready to cut the tails (top) and pins (bottom).  

And the tails and pins after routing.   Note when the material (sides and backs) are the same thickness, I can cut both tails and pins with a single routing cut.

A set of routed back (on top) and sides.  

Side to back test fit, outside.  

Back test fit inside.  

Side to front test fit.  

Stack of drawer sets, rabbeted, dovetailed, and ready to glue.  

10 drawer sets ready to glue.  

Drawer set laid out to glue.  

Putting a glob of glue on each section of the dovetail.  

Glue blobs on each section.  

Then I use this little round glue brush, from Rockler, to spread the glue.  

After the glue is spread its ready to join.  

Two drawer frames in the glue.  

Note the ClampIt holding the frame square while the glue sets.  

On most of these drawers I use a long clamp front to back on each side.   And the ClampIt in a front corner.   I use the kind faced hammer to tap the sides flush in the dovetail.

Last two of 12 drawer frames being glued.  

Stack of drawer frames, glued, ready to have bottoms glued in.  

Cutting out drawer bottoms on the table saw.   I also rip the handle stips here.

Preparing to glue in drawer bottoms, the stack of bottoms is on the left.   Drawers are bottom up.

In this zoom-in you can see the rabbet around the bottom edge for the plywood drawer bottom.   I run a bead of glue around this rabbet, place the bottom into it, and use 5/8" long brad nails to hold the bottom against the frame until the glue sets.

Ten of the 12 drawer frames with bottoms glued in.  

Some of the drawer frames (all I had room for) upside down, sanded, and ready to start paint.   I'll use clear polyurethane all the way around.

Different view of the four on the tablesaw and outflow table.  

Frame painted, now receiving several coats on the front.   Next will be assembly, slides and handles.

Some of the 2x8 ends sawed off while sizing the rest of the frame pieces.   I'll rip some of these into 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" strips.   I usually make a lot of handles when I make a batch.   My main drawer handle page.

1-1/2" X 1-1/2" strips ripped on the table saw.  

First I cut a 3/4"X 3/4" rabbet along one edge.  

3/4" X 3/4" rabbet cut.   This leaves a 3/4" thick Ell shape.

Next I round the top front and lower front edges.  

Now I round off the lower front edge.   You can see how I raised the roundoff bit.

Handle strips with all three edges rounded.  

Now I'm cutting the strips into 4" lengths.  

Since I'm going to cut a lot of these, I use a stop block.  

Pile of 4" handle blocks.  

This is a jig I made to help round off the ends of the handles.   You can seee on of the hanlde blocks clamped in the left end.

A little different perspective.  

I just move the block around the roundoff bit to round the edges.   All the handle round offs use a 3/8" radius bit.

Handle ends rounded off, ready to drill, sand, and paint.  

Stack of handles ready to drill.   I drill two pilot holes 2-1/2" apart and centered in the flat base for 1-5/8" wall board screws for mounting.   I also use the screws when painting the handles.

Handles being painted with clear water based polyurethane.   Note the wall board screws, these will also be used to mount the handles.