One of the trickey parts of cutting tenons is keeping the shoulders straight on all sides.
I originally used my tenoning jig for the entire cut but, its a pain clamping the piece in, especially considering you cut all 4 sides, so I started to pre-cut the shoulders on my table saw, then use the jig to remove the rest of the tenon's sides.
The jig used to have two vertical brace bars, but I removed one to simplify operation.
The jig is made from 3 pieces of 3/4" MDF.
The Jig
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My router table tenoning jig.
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Closer look at the back of the tenoning jig.
Note it has a miter bar (blue bar on the bottom) that runs in the router bench's miter slot.
The top section is adjustable for it's distance from the router bit.
Also note the vertical piece which keeps the work piece vertical to the router table.
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This is the way it is used.
You can see the slots, in the base, for the wooden guide bars.
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Bottom of the jig, you can see the miter bar and the two wooden guide bars that keep the vertical part of the jig aligned as it is adjusted.
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Tenons
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First cut of creating tenons on my table saw.
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Closer look at tenon 1st cut.
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Close up of table saw cut around the horizontal frame piece.
This determines the shoulder of the tenon, the table saw makes sure the shoulder is straight and symmetrical.
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The router table set up for last cut of the tenons.
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The frame piece in my tenoning jig about to have the tenon completed.
I set the router bit so the top of it's blade is in the middle of the table saw cut.
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Here I'm setting up the bit's height so it removes the rest of the wood to expose just the tenon..
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This is the table saw cut at the top of the leg.
This tenon will only be 3/8" tall.
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Tenons cut on all frame pieces.
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Closer look at frame tenons.
Note the table legs, on the left, have shorter tenons.
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An unmodified tenon in an interfearing mortise.
The tenon's corner, sticking up, will be cut off at 45° angle so the two tenons don't interfear.
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Two tenons that will meet in a interfearing mortis.
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