![]() Old Chest Of Drawers | ![]() New COD Takes Shape | ![]() Finished Chest Of Drawes |
Chest Of Drawers
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Chest Of Drawers Const | Diagram | Frame | Drawers |
My Drawer Page | Panel Lamination |
We decided we wanted a little more compact COD (Chest Of Drawers) in our two bedrooms and they should blend in with the other things we had in the house and not take up so much room. I wanted a COD that would fit under a light switch and not stick out so far from the wall (our house is tiny) and still give lots of storage volume.
Our old store-bought COD: | |
56" tall, 36" wide, and 18-3/4" deep = 37800 in³ | |
six drawers: 28-1/2" wide, 15" deep, and 6-3/8" high, = 16351.875 in³ |
The new COD: | |
50" high, 36" wide, and 15" deep = 27000 in³ | |
6 drawers 32-1/2"wide, 14" deep, and 7" high = 19698 in³ | |
plus 1 drawer 32-1/2" wide, 14" deep, and 3-1/2" high = 1641.5 in³ |
Old: Total of 16351.875 in³ storage in a space of 37800 in³ | |
New: Total of 21339.5 in³ storage in a space of 27000 in³ |
There will be 7 drawers. The top drawer will be 3-1/2" high, the bottom 6 drawers will be 7" high, with a small space between the 3rd and 4thd drawer. The top will be solid (edge laminated) pine, the frame will be 1x4 around pine inset panels (pine face, plywood backing). All frame joints will be mortise and tenon. The drawers will have a picture frame front with pine inset panel (pine face, plywood backing). Drawer front picture frame joints will be mitered with type FF biscuits.
Pine
I'm using cheap WW or pine (lots of knots) which means I do a lot of machining or sanding to make it look OK.
It also cuts the price almost in half, and I'm on a fixed budget.
When they say White Wood (WW) I don't know what kind of wood they're talking about, white pine or fir, etc.
Inset Panels
This COD will have pine inset panels on each side and the drawer fronts.
The COD will be finished natural, like all the other stand alone furniture I've built, with pine inset panels.
Previously I made pine inset panels by resawing 3/4" boards and edge join them, so they end up 5/16" thick but they tend to crack with age.
So I'm going to laminate a thin resawn panel to a piece of 3/16" plywood backer to stabilize it.
The finished panel should be 1/2" thick (5/16 + 3/16 = 8/16 or 1/2).
This is the first time I've tried this so I'll have to go slow and figure out how.
I'll resaw 1x6s, plane them to a unifom thickness, and edge join them.
Cut the panel, and a 3/16" plywood back to size, then laminate the two together.
The trick to laminating a large flat panel is uniform pressure, so I'm going to build a pressure frame that uses my woodworking bench as a base.
Second Build
I'm making the cabinet frame stonger and the drawer front frame slimmer.
I will use full width 1x4s (3-1/2") in the frame instead of ripping them to 3", changing the horizontal internal braces from 1x2 to 1x4, using mortise and tenon at all frame joints.
The drawer front frame will be ripped to 1" wide (was 1-1/2").
Drawer Sizing Info:
Top drawer: H1 = 3-3/4", H2 = 3-1/2".
Lower drawers: H1 = 7-1/8" and H2 = 5-1/2".
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Please excuse Betty's octopus outlet. The wires will make it difficult to screw this chest to the wall, if we leave them behind it. |
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Closer look at top drawers. Look at the character all those knots give it. |
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In every COD I ever had the top drawer was a junk drawer. |
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Now the clothes storage. |
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You can see the inset panels. |
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Second build, in the Master Bed Room. Notice how the drawer front frame is narrower. Also please excuse the yellow light, the fixture has CFLs but they're the soft type which I don't like. |
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How it looks from the bed. |
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Closer look at the grain in the inset panels. |
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With one drawer open. |